Hello Daggs,
The Rostock utilizes the alternative kinematics called Delta, and it's exactly as you described: dependant vertical axes moving simultaneously together to move the hot-end to a definite 3D location using diagonal rods. it uses some trigonometric calculations to do it.
You can drive a delta printer faster more confidently because the hot-end is positioned on a light platform called the end-effector suspended by (usually) carbon rods. The extruder
motor is separated by using a teflon tube and this further reduces weight. All this weight reduction reduces any inertia effects that resists the change in acceleration, which in turn
theoretically increases print quality, but really the print quality doesn't differ between the two systems, it's more speed and maybe build height you want.
It's roughly 200mmx200mm and roughly 350mm in height, the printable area is reuleaux triangle that just misses the corners of the printed bed. The best image to show this is:
[forums.reprap.org]
I've used both cartesian and delta and it feels like a cartesian is an automatic car, while delta is a manual haha. The calibration of a delta is considerably more exhaustive (especially
without auto-bed levelling) and like with cars, manual to automatic is easy but automatic to a manual is probably a challenge. They ideally need a 32bit system too.
1) You could use a spirit level ($2.80 around from a Daiso store, amongst many useful reprap tools like a M3 Hand drill!) to see that your heated bed is flat everywhere, and use it to ensure
that your X and Y system are also levelled and perpendicular to one another. Good job with the Fix!
2) Don't quote me on this because I don't regularly own a cartesian:
It's defined usually X=0,Y=0,Z=0 for the bottom left hand corner; X becomes gradually positive to the right of the bed, Y becomes gradually positive to the back of the bed and Z becomes positive. You need to set this in Pronterface under Settings -> Printer Settings -> Build Dimensions, and your slicer settings (e.g. Machine -> Machine Settings for Cura). You need to make sure that when you home your printer, your hotend is positioned at X=0,Y=0 and 0.1mm above the heated bed for Z=0. If it's not, then you'll need to set endstop offsets in your firmware - however there is such a thing called hardware endstop offsets/adjustments but I would avoid them as they are way more tedious to implement.
Delta machines have their origins defined in the middle instead.
I'm assuming you've reached the following things:
* You know about firmware and have uploaded one into your (presumably) ramps board, I use Marlin because it's easier to read and has more EEPROM command support which you'll come to know and love definitely soon.
* Test that the X,Y,Z,E motors work, I use this test code, compile in Arduino IDE: [reprap.org]
* Test that the endstops work: X_Min, Y_Min and Z_Min, you really don't need maximum endstops. Use the M119 gcode command.
* Test that the thermistors work by just looking at the temperature graph in Pronterface. T0 is for the hotend and T1 is for the bed on the Ramps board.
* Set the initial steps_per_mill values for X Y Z, E isn't important for now. Use [prusaprinters.org], based on your pulley/belt system.
Do the endstops press onto solid printed plastic, or they touch an adjustable screw?
Where are your X_min, Y_min and Z_min endstops located? X_min at the left? Y_min at the front? and Z_min on the bottom beneath the bed?
Regards,
DennyP
The Rostock utilizes the alternative kinematics called Delta, and it's exactly as you described: dependant vertical axes moving simultaneously together to move the hot-end to a definite 3D location using diagonal rods. it uses some trigonometric calculations to do it.
You can drive a delta printer faster more confidently because the hot-end is positioned on a light platform called the end-effector suspended by (usually) carbon rods. The extruder
motor is separated by using a teflon tube and this further reduces weight. All this weight reduction reduces any inertia effects that resists the change in acceleration, which in turn
theoretically increases print quality, but really the print quality doesn't differ between the two systems, it's more speed and maybe build height you want.
It's roughly 200mmx200mm and roughly 350mm in height, the printable area is reuleaux triangle that just misses the corners of the printed bed. The best image to show this is:
[forums.reprap.org]
I've used both cartesian and delta and it feels like a cartesian is an automatic car, while delta is a manual haha. The calibration of a delta is considerably more exhaustive (especially
without auto-bed levelling) and like with cars, manual to automatic is easy but automatic to a manual is probably a challenge. They ideally need a 32bit system too.
1) You could use a spirit level ($2.80 around from a Daiso store, amongst many useful reprap tools like a M3 Hand drill!) to see that your heated bed is flat everywhere, and use it to ensure
that your X and Y system are also levelled and perpendicular to one another. Good job with the Fix!
2) Don't quote me on this because I don't regularly own a cartesian:
It's defined usually X=0,Y=0,Z=0 for the bottom left hand corner; X becomes gradually positive to the right of the bed, Y becomes gradually positive to the back of the bed and Z becomes positive. You need to set this in Pronterface under Settings -> Printer Settings -> Build Dimensions, and your slicer settings (e.g. Machine -> Machine Settings for Cura). You need to make sure that when you home your printer, your hotend is positioned at X=0,Y=0 and 0.1mm above the heated bed for Z=0. If it's not, then you'll need to set endstop offsets in your firmware - however there is such a thing called hardware endstop offsets/adjustments but I would avoid them as they are way more tedious to implement.
Delta machines have their origins defined in the middle instead.
I'm assuming you've reached the following things:
* You know about firmware and have uploaded one into your (presumably) ramps board, I use Marlin because it's easier to read and has more EEPROM command support which you'll come to know and love definitely soon.
* Test that the X,Y,Z,E motors work, I use this test code, compile in Arduino IDE: [reprap.org]
* Test that the endstops work: X_Min, Y_Min and Z_Min, you really don't need maximum endstops. Use the M119 gcode command.
* Test that the thermistors work by just looking at the temperature graph in Pronterface. T0 is for the hotend and T1 is for the bed on the Ramps board.
* Set the initial steps_per_mill values for X Y Z, E isn't important for now. Use [prusaprinters.org], based on your pulley/belt system.
Do the endstops press onto solid printed plastic, or they touch an adjustable screw?
Where are your X_min, Y_min and Z_min endstops located? X_min at the left? Y_min at the front? and Z_min on the bottom beneath the bed?
Regards,
DennyP