I have a 3mm Mk2B Aluminium as well as a standard PCB heated bed. The Alu one is approx the same wattage (120W) as the pcb one, but it does take longer at 15min to reach 110deg as compared to about 7min for the PCB one. My Alu bed cant get past about 85 deg unless there is insulation underneath, and for that i just use some plain corrugated cardboard.
If you are using Marlin with a LCD, you can also try the BabyStepping feature for fine Z adjustment while the first layer is going down if its a bit too high. Setup the slicer to add a skirt/brim around the part, that way you can adjust it while its printing that before the main part gets printed.
If you are using Marlin with a LCD, you can also try the BabyStepping feature for fine Z adjustment while the first layer is going down if its a bit too high. Setup the slicer to add a skirt/brim around the part, that way you can adjust it while its printing that before the main part gets printed.
