Hello Dagg,
Yes I do have additional photos showing other angles:
1) Top and bottom plywood bases added:
www.dropbox.com
2) Top and bottom bases layed on the side:
www.dropbox.com
3) 1st side brace added:
www.dropbox.com
The side panels are 762mm x 90mm, but this isn't a strict requirement.
The dimensions of the base can be found here:
[www.thingiverse.com]
ForAfter building the Rostock and Kossel from the ground-up, I do recommend going Kossel for the aluminium extrusions that just makes it easier and modular like lego/Ikea where you can rout cables
using the extrusion slot. getting them pre-cut to size is also convenience galore.
I had to use marine plywood because the regular plywood from Bunnings (you can get better plywood deals elsewhere) is crap and MDF apparently absorbs moisture; marine plywood doesn't so the machine will hold calibration for a very long time. Cutting marine plywood is very hard and you need to be very very careful; I had to make a jig and use a circular saw. Overall it's a very big effort.
However I do agree that the wood ones do have a certain nice look to it with the grain. There's now heaps of wood models since the Rostock was released as shown:
[www.google.com.au]
If I had to do another wood delta, I would do this one provided I have the tools:
[www.appropedia.org]
Because:
1) Making a circular base with a constant diameter is intrinsically easier if you have the tools such as the router and the jig, compared to circular sawing very exact perpendicular lengths.
2) It has the vertical braces directly adjacent to the horizontal rails to give it extra strength.
Haha I know that feeling, one you go over the "peak of agony", you'll eventually approach the "period of enlightenment and accomplishment" I promise ;)
What are you stuck on your Prusa i3?
Regards,
DennyP
Yes I do have additional photos showing other angles:
1) Top and bottom plywood bases added:
www.dropbox.com
2) Top and bottom bases layed on the side:
www.dropbox.com
3) 1st side brace added:
www.dropbox.com
The side panels are 762mm x 90mm, but this isn't a strict requirement.
The dimensions of the base can be found here:
[www.thingiverse.com]
ForAfter building the Rostock and Kossel from the ground-up, I do recommend going Kossel for the aluminium extrusions that just makes it easier and modular like lego/Ikea where you can rout cables
using the extrusion slot. getting them pre-cut to size is also convenience galore.
I had to use marine plywood because the regular plywood from Bunnings (you can get better plywood deals elsewhere) is crap and MDF apparently absorbs moisture; marine plywood doesn't so the machine will hold calibration for a very long time. Cutting marine plywood is very hard and you need to be very very careful; I had to make a jig and use a circular saw. Overall it's a very big effort.
However I do agree that the wood ones do have a certain nice look to it with the grain. There's now heaps of wood models since the Rostock was released as shown:
[www.google.com.au]
If I had to do another wood delta, I would do this one provided I have the tools:
[www.appropedia.org]
Because:
1) Making a circular base with a constant diameter is intrinsically easier if you have the tools such as the router and the jig, compared to circular sawing very exact perpendicular lengths.
2) It has the vertical braces directly adjacent to the horizontal rails to give it extra strength.
Haha I know that feeling, one you go over the "peak of agony", you'll eventually approach the "period of enlightenment and accomplishment" I promise ;)
What are you stuck on your Prusa i3?
Regards,
DennyP
