Hey Daggs,
I was also cut that the Sharks didn't make it, but atleast the Bulldogs didn't go through! (Parra supporter here).
Ah never thought you were ignorning my advice, just keen to try to assist you. I know the pains of starting with a open-source printer, especially when
there seems to be not many of us in Sydney to refer to.
The hotend seems definitely too high above the glass plate if it's truly 0.68 mm above the heated bed, and the "spiderballing" is a classic symptom.
The hotend tip should be ~0.1mm above the glass surface when the machine is homed. I really do recommend getting a feeler gauge (~$5 from Bunnings is where I got mine) because it's such
a critical measurement that having +-.05mm can make a noticeable difference. A 0.58mm business card definitely won't do wonders.
Check out the "Getting your first layer to stick - " section in the following link for reference.
[richrap.blogspot.com.au]
If you find that your extruder is extruding in the wrong direction, yes you can swap the extruder stepper-motor coils connection over, but if you can't be bothered navigating through the cables (like myself) then you can change it in the marlin firmware by altering the following code:
#define INVERT_E0_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E1_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E2_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
Change E0 to true. E1 and E2 corresponds to a second and third hotend if you have that capability.
Don't rely on setting extrusion rates in the host software; this really must be set in the firmware.
You must alter it here:
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {79.8802, 80, 80.0334, 620}
The last number relates to how many steps the extruder motor needs to undertake to extrude 1mm of filament.
You must modify this number so that when you extrude 100mm of filament, it does actually extrude 100mm!
Here's a good reference (Step 1), it will essentially be an iterative process:
[richrap.blogspot.com.au]
Do you have insulation under the heated bed? It took me ages to reach 90 degrees without it like you, I use styrofoam which is one of the best insulators you can get, so do that first.
Do you have a endstop adjustment screw for the Z_min endstop?
Regards,
DennyP
I was also cut that the Sharks didn't make it, but atleast the Bulldogs didn't go through! (Parra supporter here).
Ah never thought you were ignorning my advice, just keen to try to assist you. I know the pains of starting with a open-source printer, especially when
there seems to be not many of us in Sydney to refer to.
The hotend seems definitely too high above the glass plate if it's truly 0.68 mm above the heated bed, and the "spiderballing" is a classic symptom.
The hotend tip should be ~0.1mm above the glass surface when the machine is homed. I really do recommend getting a feeler gauge (~$5 from Bunnings is where I got mine) because it's such
a critical measurement that having +-.05mm can make a noticeable difference. A 0.58mm business card definitely won't do wonders.
Check out the "Getting your first layer to stick - " section in the following link for reference.
[richrap.blogspot.com.au]
If you find that your extruder is extruding in the wrong direction, yes you can swap the extruder stepper-motor coils connection over, but if you can't be bothered navigating through the cables (like myself) then you can change it in the marlin firmware by altering the following code:
#define INVERT_E0_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E1_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E2_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
Change E0 to true. E1 and E2 corresponds to a second and third hotend if you have that capability.
Don't rely on setting extrusion rates in the host software; this really must be set in the firmware.
You must alter it here:
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {79.8802, 80, 80.0334, 620}
The last number relates to how many steps the extruder motor needs to undertake to extrude 1mm of filament.
You must modify this number so that when you extrude 100mm of filament, it does actually extrude 100mm!
Here's a good reference (Step 1), it will essentially be an iterative process:
[richrap.blogspot.com.au]
Do you have insulation under the heated bed? It took me ages to reach 90 degrees without it like you, I use styrofoam which is one of the best insulators you can get, so do that first.
Do you have a endstop adjustment screw for the Z_min endstop?
Regards,
DennyP